Dining at Dennis's Hideaway (St. George Parish; tel. 441/297-0044): At his small home on remote St. David's Island, Dennis Lamb is an unforgettable host. He personifies the eccentricity of his fellow islanders. Not only will Dennis feed you shark hash, mussel pie, and other hard-to-find seafood dishes, but he'll also give you some insight into how life was lived on Bermuda long ago. When he's not tending his pots, cleaning fish, or throwing food to one of his yapping dogs, he might also share his philosophy of life with you. No ties allowed. Call ahead for a reservation.

Escaping to a Remote Natural Setting (Smith's Parish; tel. 441/234-1831). Bermuda still has some oases that aren't overrun with visitors. Such a place is the Heydon Trust, along Somerset Road, a sanctuary for migratory birds. It's a true walk through nature, with flowering bushes and citrus orchards.

Spelunking in Crystal Caves (Hamilton Parish; tel. 441/293-0640): A spelunker's paradise, Bermuda has the highest concentration of limestone caves in the world. They form one of the island's major natural wonderlands. Their surreal formations took millions of years to come into being, and the great stalactites and stalagmites have a Gothic grandeur. The best caves are Crystal Caves at Bailey's Bay. Discovered in 1907, these caves house crystal-clear Cahow Lake.